Set up the correct angle on your rest (in this case
2.3 degrees) and grind against the vertical platen
or disc. Keep it cool to avoid them coming adrift
When complete carefully remove from the block, sand
off all glue and pin together as before. Sand the
bevels and front edge using 220, 400, 800 and 1200
grit as shown and buff lightly to finish. The final
sanding on the underside of the bolsters should
now be done on a sharp 220 grit disc.
You can now completely finish the blade bevels
and ricasso and tape it up, use a slow setting
epoxy underneath the bolsters to prevent moisture
penetration. Ensure your rivets are a good fit
and rivet them down in sequence. Example: front-top,
back-bottom, front-bottom and back-top. Go over
this sequence a couple of times until they meet
your approval - Don't Rush! - no clamping necessary.
NOTE: Shaped bolster can and do pose a
problem in cutting the handle material to match;
this can be alleviated if you work from a template.
Two Perspex templates are made - one of each side
and located by drilling through a few rivet holes.
Bevel the top front edge of each template as shown.
Paint the rear of the bolster and nearby tang area
with Vaseline and fit the templates in place. Now
using "Ceramic Clay" push this onto the
bevelled template area and back of the bolster as
shown, set aside to cure - use the next day.
NOTE: "Ceramic Clay" obtainable
from most art shops, is similar to "Pratley's
Putty" with the added benefit that it does
not shrink as much when curing.